Tilcara & Purmamarca. The Quebrada de Humahuaca is a world abounding with history, culture, and tradition that lures travelers from all over. What they are like and what is new at the two northern towns which have grown more in later years.
We got to Tilcara in a flight delayed four hours, a rather short mate round and tons of patience to get to our destination, going past control posts and speed controls without any more delays than the one we already had.
We tried to take it lightly; once we enter the Pachamama's territory, where she rules over everything the sun, we decided that we had to abide by her whims. It was August, her special month; the moment when mother Earth rests, receives food and drink offers from those that use her during the rest of the year, and considers their prayers to start a new harvest season in harmony.
In the hope of being welcome in her realm we knocked on Con los Angeles' door, Susana Bosc's hostel, who looked relieved because we were expected much earlier. We greeted each other warmly and straight to bed.
Only on the following day could we really see where we were. Just opening the bedroom door we found ourselves in a garden in full bloom -lilies, azaleas and lavender- and wooden benches with breadcrumb trays overflowing with singing birds. After breakfast we set out for the day.
VISITING TILCARA
The first that ocurred to us was to visit the Pucará. On the entrance itself, on the foot of the hill where the ruins were found, we learnt that Pucará -meaning fortness in quechua- refers to a hill which is difficult to access, a term we had to agree with after walking uphill for 15 minutes. From its top you get a wide panorama of the Quebrada, for the indians of the area's advantage as they could prepare for their enemie's attack in advance. The buildings in the site were restored using the same materials with which they had been erected, stone for the walls and straw and mud cakes stuck to cardón tie beams for roofs. Thus the dwelling and worship areas can be visited as well as the llama corrals, as they are intact.
Towards midday we headed for La Chacana, where we came accross Monica Bertuzzi -a pioneer who arrived from Buenos Aires 20 years ago-, happy to be in charge of her new restaurant. This venue is accessed from the inside of Tierra Azul, a gallery with an open patio around which there are several shops (handworks shops, a travel agency and five rooms to let on the second floor). We tasted her delicious Andean dishes, surrounded by a good background of music, herb teas and interesting talk.
Feeling satisfied and contented we went to the square, so crowded with people, handworks, material stands and loud music that we only looked on curiously and continued on our way. Luckily we found another square less than two blocks away, much quieter, opposite the church where we sat to have a rest.
Some time later our feet took us to Posada de Luz, bearing its owner's name, Luz Manfredi. Enthused by our visit, she showed us around while we enjoyed the impressive panoramic view and she told us that this was her summer house, which she turned into a residenial hostel when she decided to settle down in the place. At that moment an enormous and woolly creature came opposite us. Chuckling at my scared face, Luz explained that Santos, her brother, had also settled down in the town, where he discovered these animals -llamas, no more no less- which he studied and started to tame. If they were so widely used in old times for food, warmth and to carry goods through the barren altitudes, valleys and jungle, why not use them now for long walks? We arranged to go on an excursion with him on the next day.
The rest of the afternoon was spent visiting Rincon de Fuego and El Refugio del Pintor, the two hotels owned by Ricardo Mealla. They share the same style: they pass unnoticed on the outside - they have the same fachade as the rest of the constructions, except for a small notice which identifies them- and on the inside they are as comfortable and practical as they could be. Ricardo strove to preserve and recover the identity of the place, and offer a good service to its visitors, with its restaurant open 24 hours a day an Andean gourmet menu.
After a delicious meal and chatting at length we went for a night walk and not finding anything interesting enough we went to sleep.
THE CARAVAN
On the next day Santos Manfredi turned up as planned to fetch us in a van. We climbed at once and after the corresponding greetings, he pointed at the back. Turning around we saw three faces with huge round black eyes, thick lips and lots of wool.
-Gandalf, Saruman and Yana, meaning Negro in quechua. These are the little llamas that will help us in our excursion- the explained.
Looking back now and then -a bit nervous at seeing them sitting so demurely- we drove the scarce 6 km which separate Tilcara from Juella -a small town devoted to agriculture- where we start on our walk.
Up to where I knew, llamas kick. Or worse, they spit. But Santo's ones behave very well as we load them with baskets, thermos and the rest of our belongings and the next minute we are great friends.
Santos came from Buenos Aires five years ago, and started by helping his sister to build the inn. With the llamas it was love at first sight. He started to research how to make a muzzle, how to feed them, and gradually they got on very well. Now he has 150, 19 of which are tame. While he told us about the experiences that he went through in many expeditions he did to the Quebrada, to faraway villages in the midst of the mountains, we started on our way. The first thing was to do a Chaiaco, a ritual by means of which a hole is dug in the ground with a knife and coca leaves and alcohol are offered to the Apus -mountain spirits- to have a good journey. Then he put a jingle bells collar around Yana, and explained that there was always a leader in the caravans guiding the way.
Thus, one after the other we started to climb mounts and admire the immense surroundings. Half an hour later we stopped. We looked around and saw a great plain on the mountain, covered with eight metre tall cacti (they have been there for ages because they grow 2 cm per year). Little by little, Santos pointed at some mounts of stones and an old stone wall. We had arrived at the Pucara de Juella, of which only the foundation may be seen, because it has not been reconstructed like the Tilcara one. After choosing a strategic point overlooking the river, he unloaded the llamas and in five minutes put up a picnic fit for kings, that we enjoyed while we told stories about indians, long roads with untiring llamas and lost cultures.
CALM AND TRANQUILITI
On the way back we had lunch at Los Puestos, Adrián Garcia del Rio's Regional restaurant, strategically located at the entrance of the town. Adrián was another of the piooneers. First he had a hostel, then he devoted to horserriding but two years ago he changed his line of business. Built entirely with materials from the area, decorated by his wife Lucía del Campo, at the restaurant we find a cute and peaceful place to take shelter from the midday sun.
Later on we moved to another hostel. Lili Feijóo and Cesar Rodriguez Marquina, opened the doors of Quinta La Paceña, where we had a deserved rest. As its name suggests, behind its antique adobe walls we can find a certain peace entrenched that immediatly grabs one, especially welcome at "siesta" time.
The architect, couple of Tucuman took advantage of the 2001 crisis and remodelled the family house to materialize an old project: receive guests in a place not very different to their own house.
So, in a green garden with a homely atmosphere the original construction was recycled and from there they extended and built new rooms.
That night we slept soundly in the utmost silence, and on the next day, after a delicious breakfast served in Lili's English tableservice, we continued or way.
COLOUR FLASH
Purmamarca received us with all its grandiosity and simplicity at the same time. We settled down at Ricardo Assaff & family's La Comarca, 800 metres from the town. It is a complex consisting of lodges, rooms, shopping area and Andean cuisine restaurant not in the same building but joined by stone paths. There is also a central hall, heated pool, a mini gym and spa. But the best part of the place are the small terraces of each room, ideal for reading or admiring the view, seen among the buildings.
We soon went to the square, where we had a look at the handiwork on display -the same ones as in Tilcara- and the church. We climbed and went down the few streets, admiring again the different views of the Seven Colours Hill, the crown of a beautifull kingdom.
After lunch we had a rest under the shade of the trees; and once we recovered we started on a 3 km trekking excursion through a circuit which starts at El Porito -quite a low hill, very easy to climb for a beginner-, goes past the side of the football pitches and behind Los Colorados, finishing in the cementery. Dead hot but enjoying the views, rock formations and the colours of the mountains surrounding the area, we wen back to the town to visit someone very particular.
Barbarita Cruz was expecting us. This Purmamarcan native was thoroughly advanced for her time and is considered a celebrity in her town. She is the author of songs, teacher, ceramist, pot maker...She not only received guests at home more that 40 years ago, -much before hotels and inns opened-, but also had a workshop where she taught art. She showed her students to model clay and her house filled with adults and children sharing their knowledge about drawing and pottery, made wine and mistela wine and above all, they sang.
This sweet and wise character opened her house doors, invited us to come in and reagaled us whith lively and amusing conversation. Time flew while we listened to Barbarita and admired her house, full of paintings and handiwork given by her friends. And on a space on the wall what she calls a little embarrased "her awards": mentions and medals for her work, including the certificate whereby she is declared a Humanity's Living Heritage by the Unesco.
We left with the idea of returning, with the promise of trying mistela which was in the making, in a couple of months' time.
On the following day we moved to Hostería del Amauta, the hostel owned by Mercedes Avarello a block from the church, where we met Nunita, her cat, thanks to whom she accepts pets since she opened last January.
Just next to it is Los Morteros, the Carlos "Cartucho" Antoraz' restaurant, one of the busiest architects in the town. There we were received by Tere, who advises in the menu and part of the cooking staff. The restaurant opened a new dining room this year, and remodelled the cellar for buffets or special meals. We try al their delicacies, leaving our congratulations in Cartucho's Visitors' Book, and we leave to see the drummers playing at the square in honour of San Cayetano, the patron of workers. After the pertaining mass, three bands with drums, Andean flutes, cymbals and fireworks went out in a procession around the square. Mingling with the town dwellers and tourists with cameras, we followed them until we were dead tired.
THE LONG SHORTCUT
In the morning of our last day, we saw the news. A picket was blocking read 9, just at the entrance to Purmamarca, and nobody could either enter or leave the place.
After some thinking, we decide with Bebe to take an alternative way, quite longer and harder, but much more beautiful.
We set out Purmamarca along road 52, climbing up the Cuesta de Lipán -of more than 4.000 metres- up to Salinas Grandes, where we stopped.
We walked a bit across the immense salt ocean, and approached the pools to see the workers. We were surprised at finding people covered from head to toe as if they were bandits, and carrying big knives on top of it. In fact the only thing they did was to sell salt handiwork, which we watched being carved. We soon understood why they were covered with ponchos. The sun reflected on the snowy white ground is blinding and the skin gets dry immediatly.
We continued on road 40, and went accross the Andean plains or puna to return to Salta via San Antonio de los Cobres. Although the complete journey took us more than six hours, we used them to comment on the voyage circumstances, the Argentine everyday problems, plane delays, road pickets...
We agreed that it had been difficult to get there, slow down and adapt to the northern rhythm, but once we were received and welcome by the Pachamama, maybe she did not want to let us leave so easily.
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| Tilcara Pucara Ruins |
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Purmamarca Street |
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| Los Colorados' Trekking |
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| Tipical Andean Food |
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| Salt Flats pools |
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